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Use big spools on any machine. Stop Puddling - a.k.a. Nifty Net and Astrenet.
Modern post-bed high-speed machine - Electronic version Single and double-needle post bed machines with the PFAFF INDUSTRIAL brand are the most-used equipment in the shoe industry. PFAFF has succeeded in achieving a true upgrade of this legendary machine generation with the new series 1571/ 1574 / 1591. The modern and new designed case in the new PFAFF product lead design, the sturdy thread trimmer as well as the automatic hook lubrication are the distinguishing features of this new product range. The machines are equipped with integrated, energysaving drives. This range is mostly used for nearly all top-stitching work with single or two needles in the shoe production.
Ornamental and assembly seams on classic and sport shoes can be sewn easily and in a top seam quality. The whole range of light to medium-heavy materials is covered here. The machines guarantee maximum performance and quality at an extremely attractive price – reason enough for many well-known manufacturers to use PFAFF post bed machines for their production.
Cruising CL, I happened upon an obscurely titled ad for two industrial machines, a dark picture of two distant hunks of vaguely silver-colored metal placed haphazardly upon a table behind a rocking chair and box of diapers. The price was $350. The text was cryptic, indicating both machines had possible issues. At any rate, he did manage to spell 'Pfaff' correctly, although the model numbers were way off. Intrigued, I wrote to him.
It turns out that he was selling a Pfaff 138 and 134 together, motors included, table tops included, but a base for only one of them. He described their condition as 'working.' (I'm never sure what a seller means by that term. Does it sew?) He seemed OK though and after several e-mails, I nailed down the machines as the 138 and the 134. I've read about the 138 for quite a while and have always wanted one, as it's considered one of Pfaff's best zig-zag machines by more than several people whose opinions I respect.
I didn't know about the 134 and didn't want another straight-stitch machine, so I requested to purchase the 138 by itself. He was very reluctant, saying he needed to get rid of them. I agreed to purchase both, met him, and in addition to a fairly decent 138, I'm the proud owner of a 134 in good shape. In the single day I've owned it, I've come to the conclusion that it's the finest straight-stitch machine I've ever used. Despite the obvious pin rash over the front decal and a light rusting in the belt trough of the hand wheel as well as some minor bed wear, this machine's in good shape. It runs very, very smoothly.
After oiling, it became extremely quiet. There's not much to write about other than it's everything you want in a machine with perhaps the exception of perfect cosmetics. This is a medium-duty machine and it can handle anything lighter than heavy canvas, leather, etc. I will eventually purchase attachments such as less aggressive feed dogs in order to sew lighter materials. I've taken the machine out of the table and am cleaning it, so it's not quite ready for its close-up. It's also missing the original bobbin case so I'll be trying to find one; hopefully eBay won't let me down.
The 134 may not look impressive but it's a great sewing machine and I'm very happy the seller did me the favor of forcing me to buy it. Although some zig-zag machines make excellent straight stitches, many (even some of the best brands) have the problem of leaning stitches due to the transverse nature of the needle bar. I used to think zig-zag machines are the best but since what little sewing I do is about 90% in straight, I'm beginning to see the light. Machines like this one certainly help; it's incredible and I find that the two machines (134 and 138) are actually excellent mates. And I'm glad 'Ooooo, pretty' didn't become a medical transcription!:D (Just kiddin'.). The thing about multifunction sewing machines is that they can sometimes be like those 3-in-1 print/fax/copy machines-they do a lot of things, but don't do any of them well.
A straight-stitch machine is designed to do one thing and do it extremely well. My ideal sewing room (I am getting there) will have six or seven machines set up, each one assigned to a different function. If, heaven forbid, I could only have one or two machines, I would choose my Necchi BF and my Singer Rocketeer. That Rocketeer has sewn everything I have thrown at it-straight stitch, zig-zag, zippers, decorative, elastic, canvas, lace-and has done it well and without any angst on my part. It truly is a multifunction sewing machine, and when I bought it, it was frozen, filthy, and missing parts.
The Necchi Supernova may be similar, but I have yet to get mine up and running. Okay, I am done.:). You and I have the same idea of what a herd should be. Like you, I want about 10 machines maximum, each assigned to one specific task. Making a pair of jeans would mean sitting at the correct station depending upon the stage of construction. I have a lot of machines to sell and a few to buy; I'm getting there, slowly but surely.
Congrats on finding the Rocketeer, a great multi-function machine. It must add a special kind of satisfaction that you brought it back to life and that it's providing you so much great usage!
When it comes to domestic machines, I tend to agree re. The all-in-one vs. Single-purpose idea, although there are exceptions (such as your Rocketeer and the Kenmores of which I'm so fond). With industrial machines, the single-purpose point is made even more forcefully.
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I have an old Pfaff 34 (which is very similar to Singer 31-15, but with reverse), that I've never used before and that I need to get some needles for. I took the only needle that came with the machine (a size 100/16, system DPx35) and compared the length to a DPx17/135x17 (size 90/14). The 135x17 was about 6mm longer. Just for giggles I tried to mount it in the Pfaff, not expecting it to fit the needle clamp hole because the needle's shank is a bigger diameter than the Pfaffs original needle. To my surprise it fit just fine. I mounted it, turned the hand-wheel slowly as I thought the new longer needle would hit the hook/shuttle area and try to break.
But it did not! However it did not pick up the bobbin thread either. So for the sake of keeping things standardized, would it be a problem to move the needle bar up about 6mm and just use the 135x17 system on the Pfaff? Also, I read a post here where someone had good success using size 207 thread in a Singer 31-15, as hard as that may be to believe.
I'd be interested in doing the same thing on occasion with the Pfaff 34. Are these machines similar enough to assume so? #207 thread in a Singer 31-15? I am barely able to get #92 thread around the bobbin case and shuttle (it snaps noticeably as it passes the top of the bobbin case).
The slack in the shuttle driver would have to be tremendous to pass #207 thread. This would make for unreliable timing as the position of the hook varied with rotational speed and top thread tension changes. I'm just going by the fact that Singer not only mentions a #23 needle in the operating manual for the 31-15 but also bothers to describe it's uses.
A #23 needle would have us in the 207 thread range. Let me say that I understand that this is not the ideal size thread for a machine of this class and I'd assume before trying it that smaller thread in the bobbin would be a given. Anyway, this. Along with what was said in a previous thread has me feeling like it's not out of the question. In that thread, our forum moderator 'Art' mentions that the shuttle needle alignment would possibly need to be adjusted for using a size 24 or 25 needle. BUT I'm talking about using a smaller #23, and would still consider the adjustment might be necessary. Then a couple post down in that thread the original poster named 'AlcoveShop' said of his 31-15 '.
And fyi, 207 sews wonderful in this beast.' Here's the thread -.
I can't say how much sewing he actually did with it, maybe not much. Anyway, do you know about the needles or the question of raising of the needle bar in the Pfaff 34? Perhaps these folks have newer models of the 31-15 than mine. It was built in 1916, according to the serial number. It won't even sew with #138, much less 207 thread. When I tried to open up the clearance between the shuttle and shuttle driver, it began skipping stitches.
The timing became erratic at best and the machine was not trustworthy under that configuration. Your mileage may vary. Another thing that is weird about the 31-15 machines has to do with variations in the angle of the bobbin case mounting tabs and the opening in the tab plate. I had to bend one tab in and the other out to keep the bobbin cases from spinning around. Again, your mileage may vary. The needle bar in my 31-15 does not accept #23 needles. It uses a thin stem needle meant for tailoring machines (e.g.
96k40), which line up dead center in the little hole in the throat plate. Anything else would hit the throat plate with the slightest deflection.
I cannot use other needle systems without a lot of difficulty (been there, tried that). The biggest needle my machine uses without trouble is a #21. Finally, these 31-15s use a standard (small) bobbin. If you load it with #207 thread it may sew two belts. Aside from the difficulties, I like my 31-15 for tailoring, hemming clothing and lightweight leather items.
I even use it to sew patches onto vests, right through the lining. I have converted my 31-15 into a roller foot machine, for better feeding of garment leather. Edited October 5, 2012 by Wizcrafts. Here's a thread at another forum that deals with the same issue of using 207 thread in a 31-15, again it worked for this guy:. BTW, the name Doug in that thread is purely coincidental, not me.
So maybe there is something to yours being an older model affecting it's ability to do so. My Pfaff 34 certainly will accept the #23, it's kind of odd that the Singer won't being as they're so similar (maybe it's my Pfaff's subclass). The point about needle deflection is a good one, I'll have to see what happens when I try it I guess.
Anyway, the 207 would be the occasional project for me, where I was wanting the thread to be a prominent feature of the piece - and I wouldn't plan on the leather being any thicker than the machine is capable of. That aspect can't be fudged. Good point about the small bobbins too, but I'd only use smaller bobbin thread and these would be small pieces like wallets, coin purses and key fobs mostly. Not that you could get a ton of 138 on that bobbin either, I guess. Can you go two sizes smaller on bobbin thread or is it just one step down only? I forgot that this topic was about your Pfaff machine, not the 31-15. Is your Pfaff supposed to use system 134, or 134-35 needles?
Pfaff Sewing Machine Models
There is a difference in length and geometry. I can use some 134 LR needles (from my previous Pfaff industrial machine) in the Singer 31-15. However, it cannot use 134-35 unless I raise the needle bar. Check your manual and make sure you use the correct Pfaff needle system.
This might mean retiming the hook, or moving the needle bar. I have experienced movement of my 31-15's needle bar. I used that fact to change the set screw to a new one that I could really tighten down. The original was 96 years old and worn. As for modding your shuttle for #207 thread; opening up the clearances will allow #207 to pass around the bobbin case and the top tab on the case, then past the tapered end of the shuttle driver. But, the extra slack may mean that thinner thread skips at various speeds, but especially when sewing single stitches (stop/start), or hand-wheeling. The timing of the hook and spacing from the side of the needle (for #207) may render it ineffective for say #69 thread.
If you do anything to the shuttle driver, like bending it, or any other parts on the shuttle assembly, have a spare on hand just in case. Edited October 5, 2012 by Wizcrafts. I forgot that this topic was about your Pfaff machine, not the 31-15. Is your Pfaff supposed to use system 134, or 134-35 needles? There is a difference in length and geometry. I can use some 134 LR needles (from my previous Pfaff industrial machine) in the Singer 31-15. However, it cannot use 134-35 unless I raise the needle bar.
As for modding your shuttle for #207 thread; opening up the clearances will allow #207 to pass around the bobbin case and the top tab on the case, then past the tapered end of the shuttle driver. But, the extra slack may mean that thinner thread skips at various speeds, but especially when sewing single stitches (stop/start), or hand-wheeling. The timing of the hook and spacing from the side of the needle (for #207) may render it ineffective for say #69 thread. My machine takes the 134-35 needles. But like I mentioned the 135x16 system fit it too, only they are 6mm too long. Which is why I'm asking about moving the needle bar up - I should just give it a try.
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Pfaff Sewing Machines Prices
I thought maybe someone might know whether this would cause a problem of some kind ( like possible 135x16 incompatibility with the Pfaff 34 hook or something like that). I'll try it and see though.
I've not used 207 thread up to this point so I have none on hand, will need to order some before I can retime the shuttle or open clearances - or find out if I need to. IF the machine won't do 207 without changes (like some of the 31-15s obviously will) I may just scrap the idea or settle for 138 on top, 'cause I wouldn't want to loose it's ability for smaller thread. Thanks Wizcrafts for discussing this with me, I appreciate it.
Needle and Hook - can someone help me figure out the relationship between the two? I tried moving my needle bar up aprx. 6mm for the 135x16 needles to work. Of course it's done a little unscientifically when you're a novice so I'm not sure if I moved the bar enough, or too much.
Pfaff Sewing Machines For Sale
Anyway, the needle will go down and pick up the bobbin thread with the new 135x16 needle (when I've loaded a new bobbin) but it will not do so while trying to sew. Just a series of holes are all I get. I remember a conversation somewhere on this forum where the needle to hook relationship was discussed and described (by sewmun maybe). It went something like (just for example) 'needle tip should be above the hook by x amount just before the needle starts to rise.' , or something to that effect. I can't remember which machine was being discussed but I was hoping there is a standard for straight lock stitch machines that is bottom feed only as my Pfaff 34 is. Here are some pictures that show my needle (the new 135x16 as opposed to 134-35) in it's LOWEST position just before it starts moving up.
It's down past the hook about 1/8' or fractionally more. Thanks for any help.